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Plaster Junkie
Picture of Vallie
Posted
Applying any type of plaster requires proper training
and use of the correct tools. The Behr plaster being a
chemical synthetic based product is a type of putty plaster
that requires proper application as well. HD's are selling
this product but do not sell finishing trowels. You can
use a spatula but it must be correctly sanded and beveled
along with using the correct angle. I wish HD's would stick
to paints and stay out of the Venetian Plaster business, I
see gallons of cans that are mistints or cans that people have
brought back that do not know how to use it for $5.00 a
gallon. My point is if you really want a Venetian Plaster
in your home you should have a Safra applicator do it for
you. I have been out on alot of calls with customers
that have totally ruined their walls with this stuff.
Do not sand it without wearing a respirator and protective
clothing it contains chemicals. Read the warning label.
Our plasters are non toxic and very durable, also do not
use the Behr in the bathroom over time it will get wet
and could be a mess. What city do you live in and maybe
one of us could come by and look at it?
Applying plasters is an old art form that requires proper
training along with quality products and tools. The brush
strokes you are referring to could be a number of things
depending on your MOA (method of application).
On this website go to the Home Page and Click on Find an
Applicator, we would be glad to apply a true authentic
venetian plaster for you that is water resistant for
your bathroom.
Vallie
www.plastersofitaly.com
 
Posts: 811 | Location: Dallas, Texas, USA | Registered: 11 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Tina,

Vallie gives very good advice. VP is not an easy DIY project.

The "brush strokes" that you mention are possibly from the product being applied too thickly--a common mistake for those beginning in this art form. Also, they may be a sign of using the wrong tool.

Good luck.

David
 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Tina,
I have seen Behr plaster before. When Applied correctly it actually looks nice....not authentic looking but nice.
I would consider usung a A 6" putty knife and a stainless mud trowel (Home Depot) being your first time. Try skimming out the bumps and burnish. VP is not easy and does take training and practice.
 
Posts: 405 | Location: Cincinnati Ohio | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Doyle
Posted Hide Post
Good advice Scott. If you use a 6 inch knife and skim another coat on and you should be happy with the results.
Doyle
 
Posts: 1898 | Location: San Diego | Registered: 12 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Amy K. Calaway
Posted Hide Post
Wow. This is a rather discouraging thread, but true. But you have some options if you are persistant in doing it yourself.
1. sand it down or try to scrape it off. (I think that if you get it wet, you should be able to remove it; like wallpaper) prime with kilz or another heavy duty alkyd primer (2 coats), and try again, use a knife to apply and put it on as thin as possible 1/16 of an inch or less. It takes a lot of muscle but it can be done.
2. Wallpaper
3. Call one of us. The guys are right, Venetian is not a DIY product. We all train and practice and train some more. It is an on going learning process. Sorry to be so negative, but Italian plasters are tricky. We are pretty nice people, give one of us a call and we should be able to better guide you in the right direction. Sorry you had such a bad experience.
 
Posts: 1112 | Location: Dayton, Oh | Registered: 15 August 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Posted Hide Post
Sherwin Williams, 6" Hyde (gold tip) is my knife of choice.
Get a stainless trowel, not plastic.
Knife down the bumpy walls,..youll see crumbs flaking off, lightly sand with fine paper, and skim another coat of Behr plaster on top. Burnish with a trowel or spatula, then buff hard in circular motions with a soft cloth. I have used Behr before, stick with it, youll be fine.
Then contact Doyle and schedule a class .
 
Posts: 405 | Location: Cincinnati Ohio | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Hi Tina,



Sorry, but Safra products are available only to applicators that have completed the SOIP class.

You are eligible to take the class though.



Regarding Behr topcoat: It makes your finish look like plastic, but you will need a topcoat to protect the VP from water. Apply a topcoat only after you are satisfied with the VP application. Also, make sure you let the VP and topcoat cure for at least a week before getting it wet--up to 21 days is better. The finish needs to form a good film (coalesce) in order to shed moisture.



No matter what you apply it with, this is important--keep the tool at a high enough angle and use enough presssure to apply it very thin--about the thickness of paint--THIN! Failure to apply thin is one of the major reasons for disappointment.



David



PS. Consider printing out this thread completely in order to easily refer to the ideas.

Highlite the ones that you will use.

 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Tina,



According to the manufacturer, you burnish "after" the topcoat application. You WILL need the topcoat to protect this product in a shower!



Trowel angle is covered in the detailed instructions link below.



Painting over can be done later; sand/prime/paint--1-2-3.



David



---------------------------------



From the--Behr--web site:



"For added durability and protection, use the Venetian Plaster Topcoat. Premium Plus With Style Venetian Plaster Topcoat provides a washable, satin-sheen finish in high traffic or high-moisture areas. A polished marble-like appearance can be created, by following the Burnishing instructions below. Apply the Venetian Plaster Topcoat prior to burnishing and within 7 days of the Venetian Plaster application."



BEHR--Instructions--LINK:

http://www.behr.com/behrx/expert/activity.jsp?aid=616&subnav=interior&leftNav=noSteps

 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Interested
Posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David Ivey:
Tina,
<br />
<br />According to the manufacturer, you burnish "after" the topcoat application. You WILL need the topcoat to protect this product in a shower!
<br />
<br />Trowel angle is covered in the detailed instructions link below.
<br />
<br />Painting over can be done later; sand/prime/paint--1-2-3.
<br />
<br />David
<br />
<br />---------------------------------
<br />
<br />From the--Behr--web site:
<br />
<br />"For added durability and protection, use the Venetian Plaster Topcoat. Premium Plus With Style Venetian Plaster Topcoat provides a washable, satin-sheen finish in high traffic or high-moisture areas. A polished marble-like appearance can be created, by following the Burnishing instructions below. Apply the Venetian Plaster Topcoat prior to burnishing and within 7 days of the Venetian Plaster application."
<br />
<br />BEHR--Instructions--LINK:
<br /><a href="http://www.behr.com/behrx/expert/activity.jsp?aid=616&subnav=interior&leftNav=noSteps" target="_blank">http://www.behr.com/behrx/expert/activity.jsp?aid=616&subnav=interior&leftNav=noSteps</a>
<br />


I'm a complete newbie in Venetian Plaster and decided to give it a try in my next home project (regular paint is so dull Smiler) So after looking at different faux methods, I decided to go with VP from Behr. I saw some nice results at my neighbor’s house done by professional and I loved it. So after a lot of practicing in the basement I think I can do decent VP job for myself. But the most confusing part is top coating. I noticed a link to Behr web site concerning top coat, but look what it reads now:

For added durability and protection, use the Venetian Plaster Topcoat. Premium Plus With Style Venetian Plaster Topcoat provides a washable, satin-sheen finish in high traffic or high-moisture areas. Do not burnish or polish the surface before or after the application of the topcoat.

Where is a part: “Apply the Venetian Plaster Topcoat prior to burnishing and within 7 days of the Venetian Plaster application?”. At this point I’m totally confused. I even went to HD and got Behr’s CD. In instructional video they clearly explain to apply top coat BEFORE burnishing. But web site instruction (and brochure that lay around in HD) says “Do not burnish or polish the surface before or after the application of the topcoat”. Plus, I don’t understand why top coat and then burnish (removing some of it???). I think “top” means last step. Any explanation is greatly appreciated.
 
Posts: 3 | Registered: 14 July 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Amy K. Calaway
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I gotta tell ya, I have never used Behr plasters so I am not a very good resource. The plasters that we use do no require any topcoats or wax. Since you purchased the instructional video, I would rely on that as the most current and up to date information regarding their products. Sorry I couldn't help out with anything better than that.


amy@calawaydesignfinish.com
 
Posts: 1112 | Location: Dayton, Oh | Registered: 15 August 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Amy K. Calaway
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I looked back over the post above, and it is pretty old. Dates back to 2003. I would stick with the Instructions that you currently have.


amy@calawaydesignfinish.com
 
Posts: 1112 | Location: Dayton, Oh | Registered: 15 August 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Doyle
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Same here, I don't apply the Behr... But I would think you would apply the topcoat after you burnish. I would go by how they say to apply their plaster though.
Doyle
 
Posts: 1898 | Location: San Diego | Registered: 12 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Interested
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Hey Amy, Doyle!

Thanks a lot for your reply. And fast as well! This is really funny how a mass produced product like Behr VP sold in a nation wide chain like HD has such a confusing instructions. Anyway I did some test in the basement (my unfinished basement is my test pad Smiler) and looks like if top coat is applied after sanding and burnishing results are really ugly. If no sanding or burnishing is done (like they advise in the brochure) finish is very nice but not enough “pattern” is revealed. Well, that all I can say.
 
Posts: 3 | Registered: 14 July 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Doyle
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I agree with you, that is why nobody here uses it. You would not believe the difference between the fax plaster and the Safra plasters.
Doyle
 
Posts: 1898 | Location: San Diego | Registered: 12 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
Picture of Fritz
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With behr,
I would apply the first coat and knock it down smooth.
Second coat, apply with decorative choppy motion and then burnish it by compressing with a trowel. This trowel can be purchased at lowes. It has a yellow handle.

The reason why they tell you to sand it is because it will make it smoother. They dont really think you can apply a first smooth coat.
Applying the first coat and knocking it down smooth will be well enough.
Coat over coat,...no need to sand then burnish.
When Behr is applied right, it looks nice.
luck
Scott
 
Posts: 1303 | Location: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: 03 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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