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My friends & I organized a company that manufactures & distributes powder paint systems here in the Philippines. As far as we can tell, we are the only ones doing this actively in our local market. All our products are cement-based and as such, most need only clean water. We have an elastomeric product whose one formulation already distresses just using a roller brush, but the other two are the more exciting ones.

I was speaking to a panel of architects at one of my favorite clients (www.lorcalma.com) about one of our products, which we call Satin Wall. The normal methodology of applicatin that we have use was basically linear application; either vertical or horizontal strokes. They wanted me to explore a different methodology which would produce VP.

My basic questions are these:

1. Are there any true cement-based products in the market? As far as I can tell from surfing on the web,
they are not any.

2. Just how important are the stiffer trowels to the entire process? Most of the locally available trowels
are the thin kind that bend easily.

I would appreciate your reply.

Thank you and good day!


Allan Mosqueda
 
Posts: 3 | Location: Philippines | Registered: 10 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Hi Allan,



Texston (Canoga Park, CA) is a company that makes cement based Venetian type Plaster.

A stiff trowel is desirable for Portland cement products for they make it easier to push the plaster into the substrate for better adhesion. Both Kraft Tools and Marshalltown make very good Portland cement based plaster trowels.



I hope your research and development turn out well.



David Ivey
 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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David,
I want to skim the walls out in my damp basement. The walls are quite uneven. Basically I want to make them (walls) look nicer, and repel a little more moisture. I heard of a cement or mortar mix with some fibers"?? What would you, or anyone else recomend? I think I have a feel for trowel, but this is a little different. It is a rock foundaion, and its old.
 
Posts: 405 | Location: Cincinnati Ohio | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Scott,



I have used fiber added Portland cement stucco.

The polypropylene or fiberglass fibers are added to increase resistance to cracking and in my experience--they work well.

An easy to find brand is Quikrete's Quickwall. I have found its quality to be uneven, but acceptable if it is to be painted over.



The walls being made of stone will require a good latex bonding adhesive.



Do you want to paint over the plaster?

If you want to paint over the plaster then let it cure for at least 30 days to bring down the pH.

Depending on how great a moisture problem there is, you may want to use a masonry primer/sealer before painting�Drylok works well unless there is considerable moisture build up. Make sure and use an acrylic paint for it resists the high pH much better than oil or alkyd paints. You can use lime paint for a cool effect too!



I would use dry stucco with fibers.

Use acrylic fortifier as the "mix water" to both increase the adhesion to the substrate, and better resist moisture penetration. Using the fortifier eliminates the need to "moist cure" the stucco. Otherwise it needs to be kept damp by fogging or misting several times a day for about 5 to 7 days to build it's strength. It is a hydraulic cement, unlike lime plasters that air cure.



A fifty pound sack of Portland cement stucco will require about 4 to 5 quarts of moisture to bring it to the desired consistency. Acrylic fortifier can be found in the masonry dept. of most home centers. (Home Depot sells it by the gallon for a decent price--about $14.00)

A store that specializes in tiles should have it also.



Plan on using a 1/2" drill with a good paddle to mix the stucco. Each bag should be applied in 1 to 1 1/2 hours after mixing and can be re-tempered once. (Water added and re-mixed)



You can add integral colorant to the stucco, but if you do, make sure that the substrate is extremely moist before applying the stucco, or the color will be sucked deeply into the wall and be weak in intensity. Apply continuously for best results or the color may be uneven--stopping only at good break points.



Sounds like a great project



David
 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Thanks David, sounds like I will try it.
I will let you know what happens
 
Posts: 405 | Location: Cincinnati Ohio | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Interested
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Hi David!

Thanks a lot for the reply... been out of the forum because of the hacked page.

I have another question... how important is it to have a rounded edge to the stiff trowel?


Allan Mosqueda < !--color-->
 
Posts: 3 | Location: Philippines | Registered: 10 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Hi Allan,

Welcome back!

Stucco that contains sand, such as Portland cement should not be applied with a beveled edge trowel.
A beveled edge does not allow the concentrated pressure that a flat edge does.
I.e. the rounded edge has a greater surface area--making for less pressure per sq. inch.

The blade also will scratch easily--so if used for fine plasters--it will need more frequent polishing (sanding) to smooth the blade. Rounded end trowels are also not generally used for normal cement stuccowork. Those are used for swimming pools and other curved surfaces.
Rounded or beveled edge trowels are used for smooth or fine grain plasters.

Your project sounds very interesting.
Good luck.

David
 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Interested
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Hi David!

First off, thanks for the great replies and I'm glad to be back! Your replies are helping me get a better idea of what these plasters are all about: both their limitations and possibilities.

From your reply to my latest question, I gather then that an even colored finished just does not happen in these types of plasters... unless of course when the color is white.

Thanks again! I'm not as clueless as before.


Allan Mosqueda

P.S. - I hope to attend the classes both in the U.S. and Italy & apprentice with you.
 
Posts: 3 | Location: Philippines | Registered: 10 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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David,

I know you have a knack for getting product info.
Is there any way that you could find the make-up of Sherwin Williams Sand Stone. I couldnt find it.
If not, thats cool
Scott
 
Posts: 405 | Location: Cincinnati Ohio | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Scott,

vee haf our vays to maek zem talk!


http://www2.sherwin-williams.com/ProductsServices/default.asp
www2.sherwin-williams.com/ProductsServices/default.asp
Then go to Architects/etc.

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Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Plaster Junkie
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Hi Allan,

Thanks!
I will be glad to arrange for Doyle & Linda to teach you. He,he,.

An even color in decorative stuccos and plasters is not generally desirable, though if applied as one coat, it could be done. The variation of color intensity is what makes decorative plasters so interesting and can also be done in white.

Please do come over and study at SOIP. It will open up an even GREATER potential for you and your company.

David
 
Posts: 619 | Location: Nashville, Tennessee | Registered: 19 November 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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