Just looking for some practical advice on avoiding lap marks to the extent possible. I know I should leave a natural looking, formless edge around a section I've just completed before dropping back to burnish. And I suppose that it is virtually impossible to go right up to- but not beyond- the previously burnished section. So I guess what I'm saying is, 'what works for you?'

I just leave about a 1/4 inch unburnished then the next

pass is the overlap into it. I can usually do a 4x8 foot

wall then burnish. If the heater is blasting and you are

applying a thin coat with 2000 watts of halogen lights on you need to watch how it is drying.



Scott has always said its a touch and see thing. This is true with Veneziano. Look up where you started and you

can see it start to haze up then observe how it is drying throughout. I tend to pick up the speed if I am close to

finishing a wall instead of stopping. Try doing two sample boards at home under the same conditios with different burnishing times. I wonder if it will burnish the next Day?



I brunish alot different now that what I was doing in class.

I apply alot of pressure. Also I burnish in all four directions, buff, then repeat. Really intense but I always

get an incredible shine. You can also tell when you cant burnish no mo the trowel starts to skip and will not grab the product. done.



Vallie

Thanks, Vallie. By the way, your tip on the bondo scrapers worked great on the arched ceilings. I too have found that buffing vigorously after burnishing and one final burnish really gives it an extra shine, as well as an ultra smooth feel. People just can't believe how smooth the Veneziano becomes. I'm not looking forward to this big flat ceiling, though. It's going to be a workout. Thanks again...

Jason, when you do the ceiling, try working off of a small scaffold set. Andjust the plank in which you can stand and apply at a comfortable height, and adjust the other plank to where the Veneziano bucket is right there at a height where you can acess it easily. Ceilings are so much easier on scaffold than ladder.

Hopefully you have one, if not, Home Depot has them on sale now for 50 bucks.

Scott,

How tall will these scaffolds go? Can you stack them?

Lynn

Thanks for the advice on lap marks. Finished ceiling looks a lot better than my shoulders feel. But no lap marks at all. Walls should be a lot more frieldly to finish.

No Lynn, HD is selling a 4 footer for 50$
I have a six footer and I love it,..use it all the time
Its not stackable. I bougt my stackable at Sherwin williams for $1200. I really like it.

I got my double decker scaffolding from Ebay and with shipping was in the 800.00's.....great outfit with outriggers and extra casters.......only used it once in a year's period. I also have a 6' Perry Mini-Scaffold and got it for a little over 300.00......yeah I know it's more expensive than some other brands but I bought it for the company's reputable quality.

Nancy, the Perry 6' is a one-level only, highly portable-one-man scaffold. It folds in half and has two metal planks that lift out of the unit for easy storage or transport, (can be assembled in about 2 minutes by 1 person easily). Like I said you can't stack on top of it and the planks will sit at 6' feet at the highest point but it's a little dangerous to have the planks set that high since there isn't railing, but if I have to go higher than 6' then I assemble my double decker....I use my Perry for just about every job with ceilings at 10' or lower. It's a great investment and I wouldn't think to do jobs off of ladders or step-stools!!!

I agree Perry is the top of the line but I bought some comparable scaffolding at "Sutherlands". 6' stackables at $159.00 per section. I have a 8' long Perry and I think these work just as well and are half the price (would have to check on brand name)Nancy: The regular Perry style scaffolding isn't as easy to put together as the one Greg is talking about but if you ever have to do a ceiling....they can't be beat..... and like I said there are others that are less expensive.The more to have to assemble and break down the easier it gets. Dan Mc